Tracy Hills silver jewellery is crafted to last a lifetime, however with normal every day wear, proper care is required to protect it and keep it looking good.
We've created this basic jewellery care guide to help you care for your jewellery. We also offer a repair, cleaning, polishing, re-plating, and patination service.
We hope you'll find these tips helpful. If you have any further questions, please contact email@example.com.
When performing manual tasks, remove your jewellery to prevent physical damage or exposure to chemicals or cleaning fluids.
Cosmetics, hairspray, perfumes and lotions can contain chemicals that can often damage or tarnish jewellery. Put jewellery on after applying all cosmetics
Remove all jewellery before showering or cleaning. Soap can cause a film to form, making the metal and gemstones to appear dull and dingy.
Don't wear jewellery in swimming pools and spas – chlorinated water can react with the metals found in jewellery causing colour changes and sometimes even structural damage – particularly in gemstones. As a result it's a good idea to remove jewellery before entering the pool or spa.
It is not a good idea to wear jewellery during contact sports. Hard blows during sports can damage or misshape even the sturdiest of jewellery pieces.
It is best not to sleep in your jewellery, as chains can easily break or become entangled by hair, and bangles can become misshapen.
We provide a full cleaning and polishing service. Please contact us beforehand to discuss the nature of the problem and to receive a quote: firstname.lastname@example.org
Use Goddard’s silver polish cloths for best results. It is quick and easy to use regularly and will help prevent tarnish.
Goddard’s silver dip is very good for cleaning and restoring your jewellery to a shine; however it is very important you follow the instructions properly. Do not dip any bronze, gold plating or oxidised pieces.
Anyone who has a collection of jewellery can appreciate how difficult it can often be to keep it organized. To improve the enjoyment of your jewellery, we've assembled these suggestions that should keep your jewellery safely stored.
Store your jewellery in a container and prevent pieces from moving around. While fabric-lined jewellery boxes are ideal, you could simply use a shoebox with some soft fabric. Even whilst sitting in a box, metal – especially silver and gold - can tarnish.. To maintain the lustre of your jewellery, place silver anti-tarnish strips in your storage container to absorb the oxidants that discolour and tarnish jewellery.
Travelling can be tough on jewellery, so it's wise to use a travel pouch to protect your favourite pieces. Traditionally made of fabric or leather, a travel pouch can carry jewellery of all types and easily rolls up to a size that's easily stored in most suitcases, makeup cases or business attaches.
How to Put On A Cuff Bangle
It seems a little odd that we have actually had to learn how to put a cuff bracelet on, but it's true! Over the years, we've watched hundreds of people struggle when trying on a cuff, reddening their wrists, and even trying to pull them over their outstretched hands! The easiest technique involves finding the "sweet spot" on your own arm. This spot lies, just above the jutting wrist bone, where the softer flesh of the lower arm begins. It is generally much narrower here, top-to-bottom, than the wrist, even if it seems wider, because the flesh here is softer, more resilient, not just skin over bone and cartilage as in the joint itself. A cuff should be pushed over this spot, from the inside of the wrist, the cuff opening pointing away from the wearer, until the cuff rests against the inside of the arm. It should then be rolled over the arm's outer bone. If it can't be rolled comfortable, then the size is not right for the wearer's wrist. Resizing will be covered later, but for now, a well fitting cuff will then slide down to rest against the turn of the hand at the bottom of the wrist joint, with a little loose-ness for comfort, but with enough similarity in shape, that it doesn't have the tendency to roll over.
The basic shape of the inside of a cuff comes from the shape of the steel mandrel used as a form to bend it to size. There are two basic shapes: a flattened, tapered cone; and a rounder tapered cone. Some wrists are of the former shape: wider and flatter in cross-section, while others' wrists have a more rounded shape. Generally speaking, a round-wrist person should look for a round-wrist cuff and vice-versa, but there are ways to get around those limitations. One thing about ft that needs to be stated is that no cuff is made to defy gravity by clinging to a portion of the lower arm ABOVE the wrist, during wear. The natural tendency is to slip down to lie comfortably just above the hand. If you need a cuff to hang upon your arm itself, try purchasing a bracelet manufactured from a springy metal that will grip your arm, or use liberal glue application, other wise, if you need to squeeze a cuff into a position, it will eventually fail. A cuff is a rigid piece of jewelry, and is not made to be repeatedly opened and squeezed to wear. This will shorten its life considerably.
Sterling silver is a soft metal alloy that although malleable, also becomes brittle when bent repeatedly in the same place. A cuff's shape and settings will determine where the weakest point is, and that will undoubtedly be where it is bent. Try it yourself with a pair of pliers and a coat hanger -- the hanger wire is soft steel, but if it is bent back and forth enough times, it will snap like a twig -- silver will do the same. It's called "work-hardening" and is something to be avaoided if you want your cuff to last. We've seen cuffs with broken shanks brought in for repair regularly. These repairs -- even if they are possible -- are notoriously expensive, and usually less than perfect. The better course of action is to prevent the break by training yourself to resist the temptation to squeeze your cuff tighter.
There is a simple basic test that you can use when trying on a new cuff -- first, if it is row-set, multiple stone set or set with a very wide specimen stone, be sure that the set area (stones, bezels, etc.) is no wider than the top of your wrist. This will give you a few more options if the fit needs to be adjusted. The areas where stones are set and soldered into position are stiffer, and also more brittle than the rest of the cuff. There should be very little movement of the metal here, to insure a cuff's longevity. If this area is bent, in re-shaping, even carefully, at the very least, the bezel cups that hold the stones will change their shape as well, effectively loosening the stones. Possibly cracking or loosening solder joints as well, leading to lost stones and applied component failure.